Last month at a regional USDF-rated dressage show, I watched a rider power through her Fourth Level test with a tight, almost imperceptible wince every time she sat a half-pass. Afterward, she told me she'd been diagnosed with lumbar spinal stenosis two years prior, and had just written off chronic back pain as "part of being a competitive dressage rider." She'd spent $3,000 on a new custom dressage saddle for her horse that year, but hadn't considered that her own saddle might be the root of her pain.
It's a story I hear over and over: 1 in 5 competitive dressage riders live with chronic orthopedic concerns, from hip dysplasia and knee osteoarthritis to SI joint dysfunction, old riding injuries, post-surgical recovery, and years of accumulated strain from training. So many of them push through pain, convinced they have to choose between the sport they love and their long-term mobility. But the right saddle isn't a luxury---it's the difference between finishing a test wincing and finishing with a confident, balanced seat that lets you and your horse perform at your best.
The Golden Rule: Your Saddle Has to Work for Both You and Your Horse
A common mistake riders with orthopedic concerns make is prioritizing their own comfort and forgetting that a saddle that doesn't fit your horse will cause them soreness, gait changes, and even long-term soundness issues---which will hurt your performance way more than a little back pain ever could. The perfect saddle for orthopedic concerns fits your body's unique needs first, then adjusts to fit your horse's back, no compromises. No saddle is worth it if it makes your horse uncomfortable, full stop.
Key Saddle Features for Common Orthopedic Concerns
Dressage saddles are built for a specific riding position: deep seat, long leg, upright upper body. For riders with orthopedic concerns, small tweaks to standard design make all the difference. Below are the most common issues I see, and the features that address them:
- Lower back, SI joint, or lumbar spine pain : The most common complaint from competitive riders, and the easiest to fix with the right saddle. First, prioritize custom-contoured flocking (the soft, adjustable padding inside the saddle seat that supports your spine) that matches your natural lumbar curve, not a flat, generic seat that forces you to hunch or brace to stay in position. You'll also want a wider saddle twist (the narrowest point between the pommel and cantle) to take pressure off your iliac crests, a common hidden source of SI joint pain. Adjustable stirrup bars are non-negotiable here, too: if your stirrups are too far forward, they tilt your pelvis forward and put extra pressure on your lower back. Being able to move the bars back to align directly under your hip joint lets you keep a neutral pelvis, no bracing required.
- Hip dysplasia, knee osteoarthritis, or post-ACL/knee replacement recovery : Pressure on the hip joints and knee caps is the enemy here. Again, a wider twist reduces pressure on the hip joints, while adjustable, memory foam knee rolls are a total game-changer. Fixed, bulky knee rolls dig into arthritic knees or post-surgical scar tissue, but adjustable rolls let you move them up, down, or even remove them entirely for sessions where you need more range of motion. You'll also want a moderate seat slope (not too steep, not too flat) that lets your thigh rest flat without forcing your knee up into your chest, which adds extra strain to the knee joint.
- Shoulder, rotator cuff, or upper back pain : A saddle tree that's not overly wide at the front is key here: a too-wide tree pushes your shoulders forward, rounding your upper back and straining your rotator cuffs. Look for a saddle with a slightly longer, more angled flap that lets your arm hang naturally at your side without hunching, and a low, padded pommel that doesn't push your upper body forward. A well-balanced saddle (not nose-heavy or cantle-heavy) also reduces the amount of effort you have to use to hold your upper body upright, taking strain off your shoulders and back.
Step-by-Step Process to Find Your Perfect Fit
Don't just walk into a tack shop and buy the first pretty saddle you see. Follow this process to make sure you're getting a saddle that actually works for your body:
- Get clear on your needs first, before you shop . Work with your orthopedist or physical therapist to get a written list of your specific pain points, range of motion limits, and any hard restrictions (e.g., "no internal rotation of the left hip," "no pressure on the right knee cap," "no more than 15 degrees of knee flexion for the first 3 months post-surgery"). Bring this list to every saddle fitting, so your fitter knows exactly what they're working with. The more specific you are, the better they can tailor the saddle to you.
- Find a saddle fitter who specializes in both horse and rider fit, with experience working with riders with orthopedic concerns . A lot of saddle fitters only focus on fitting the horse, and will dismiss rider comfort as a secondary priority. Ask for references from other riders with chronic pain or injuries before you book an appointment, and make sure they're willing to adjust the saddle for your needs, not just the horse's.
- Prioritize custom or semi-custom options over off-the-rack saddles . Off-the-rack dressage saddles are built for an "average" rider that doesn't exist, especially if you have unique orthopedic needs. Fixed twist widths, fixed stirrup bar placement, and generic flocking will almost never align perfectly with your body's needs. If a full custom saddle is out of budget, look for semi-custom options from reputable brands like Schleese, Antarès, or Pessoa that offer adjustable features: movable stirrup bars, replaceable knee rolls, adjustable flocking, and multiple twist width options. These can be tailored to your needs for a fraction of the cost of a fully custom saddle.
- Test the saddle in motion, not just standing still . A saddle that feels fine when you're sitting stationary in a shop will feel very different when you're posting to the trot, sitting a half-pass, or holding a two-point for extended periods. Ask your fitter if you can do a test ride, ideally with your own competition horse, doing the exact movements you perform in tests. Wear the same riding boots, breeches, and gear you use for shows, so the fit is accurate. Pay attention to any pressure points, pain, or limited range of motion during the ride, and don't be afraid to speak up if something feels off.
- Never sacrifice horse fit for your own comfort . This is the line I will never cross as a fitter, and it's the line you shouldn't cross either. If a saddle works perfectly for your hip pain but pinches your horse's withers or puts pressure on their lumbar spine, it's not the right saddle. A good saddle fitter will be able to adjust the saddle's tree and panels to fit both your body and your horse's back, no compromise needed. If a fitter tells you to "just add a pad" to fix horse fit issues, find a new fitter.
3 Common Orthopedic Saddle Myths (That Will Waste Your Money)
If you've been scrolling equestrian groups for saddle recommendations, you've probably heard these takes---don't fall for them:
- Myth 1: A wider saddle is always better for hip pain . A too-wide saddle will put pressure on your horse's withers, and may not support your pelvis properly, leading to more back pain. Your twist width needs to be tailored to your specific hip width and range of motion, not just as wide as possible.
- Myth 2: Extra padding or seat cushions will fix my pain . Thick seat cushions or extra pads shift during competition, throw off your balance, and can even put extra pressure on your horse's back if they're too bulky. Support needs to be built into the saddle's structure, not added on top as an afterthought.
- Myth 3: I can just "tough it out" with my current saddle . Pushing through pain changes the way you sit, which leads to uneven weight on your horse's back, inconsistent aids, and eventually both you and your horse developing chronic soreness. Pain is your body's way of telling you something is wrong---don't ignore it.
Keep Your Saddle Fitting Longer
Even the perfect custom saddle won't stay perfect forever. Get your saddle checked by a fitter every 6 months, especially if your horse's weight changes, or your own pain levels or range of motion shift (like during a flare-up of arthritis, or post-surgery recovery). Small adjustments---like moving your stirrup bars half an inch back, or adding a softer knee roll---can make a huge difference in your comfort without needing to buy a whole new saddle.
I'm thinking of that rider I saw at the show last month, who I'll call Mia. She came to me three months later, after getting a custom saddle with a 16cm twist, adjustable stirrup bars moved 1.5 inches back, and soft memory foam knee rolls. She sent me a video of her Prix St. Georges test last weekend: she was sitting deep in every sitting trot, no wince, her horse was moving freely, and they scored a 72%. She told me she hadn't taken ibuprofen before a ride in over two months.
That's the thing about the right saddle: it doesn't just take away your pain. It gives you back the ability to ride without holding back, to connect with your horse without being distracted by discomfort, to compete at the level you've worked for without sacrificing your body to do it. You don't have to choose between the sport you love and your health---you just have to find the saddle that works for both.