If you own a compact SUV and love taking your horse on off‑road adventures, a purpose‑built travel trailer can be the perfect solution. Below is a step‑by‑step guide to designing and building a lightweight, removable horse trailer that fits inside the cargo area of most compact SUVs (e.g., Subaru Outback, Mazda CX‑5, Honda CR‑V).
Why a DIY Travel Horse Trailer?
| Benefit | Description |
|---|---|
| Space efficiency | Fits in the SUV's cargo bay, leaving room for gear and passengers. |
| Weight control | You can select materials that keep the overall weight under your vehicle's payload limit. |
| Custom fit | Tailor dimensions to your horse's size, your SUV's dimensions, and your specific travel needs. |
| Cost savings | A DIY build can be 50‑70 % cheaper than a factory‑made trailer. |
Gather Your Specs
| Parameter | Typical Value for Compact SUVs |
|---|---|
| Cargo length | 70‑80 in (≈180‑200 cm) |
| Cargo width | 55‑60 in (≈140‑150 cm) |
| Maximum payload | 1,000‑1,200 lb (≈450‑540 kg) |
| Horse size | 14‑15 hh (hand height) -- 1,200‑1,500 lb total weight (horse + tack) |
Tip: Verify your SUV's exact cargo dimensions and payload rating in the owner's manual before finalizing the trailer size.
Design Overview
2.1 Frame Geometry
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| Front Eyebars (2") |
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| │ │ https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Side+Rails&tag=organizationtip101-20 |
| │ https://www.amazon.com/s?k=box&tag=organizationtip101-20 │ (2" x 2") |
| │ (1") │ |
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- Front Eyebars: 2 in × 2 in rectangular steel, bolted to the SUV's rear‑door latch points (or a custom anchor plate).
- Side Rails: 2 in × 2 in rectangular tubing, run the full length of the cargo bay (≈70 in).
- Cross‑members: 1 in × 1 in steel or 1.5 in square aluminum for added rigidity, spaced every 12 in.
2.2 Floor Platform
- Material: ½‑in marine‑grade plywood, sealed with epoxy & UV‑stable polyurethane.
- Support: 2‑in × 1‑in lumber (or aluminum channels) screwed to the cross‑members.
- Weight limit: Designed for ~1,300 lb (horse + tack).
2.3 Restraint System
| Component | Recommended Option |
|---|---|
| Side rails | 2 in steel with rounded edges, welded with a ½‑in thick rubber pad. |
| Front & rear gates | Hinged double‑door design with lockable latch. |
| Tie‑down points | 5 mm D‑ring eyelets bolted into the side rails every 24 in. |
| Head‐stall | Removable 2‑ft high padded bar that slides into a front slot. |
2.4 Access & Loading
- Ramp: 2‑ft wide, 30 in long, made from ¾‑in plywood with rubber anti‑slip strips.
- Ramp brackets: Quick‑release pins attach to the front rails, allowing the ramp to fold flat when not in use.
Materials List
| Item | Qty | Recommended Specs |
|---|---|---|
| Rectangular steel tubing (2"x2"x¼") | 8 ft total | ASTM A500 Grade B |
| Square steel tubing (1"x1"x¼") | 10 ft total | ASTM A500 Grade B |
| Marine plywood, ½" | 2 sheets (4 × 8 ft) | Exterior grade, no knots |
| Aluminum angle (1.5"x1.5"x¼") | 4 ft | 6061‑T6 |
| Rubber padding (½" thick) | 4 ft² | Neoprene, weather‑proof |
| Stainless steel bolts & nuts (M10) | 30+ | Grade 8, lock washers |
| D‑ring eyelets (5 mm) | 8 | Zinc‑coated |
| Hinges (heavy‑duty) | 4 | 3‑inch rectangular |
| Latch hardware | 4 sets | Locking cam latch |
| Epoxy resin & UV varnish | 1 kit | Marine grade |
| Non‑slip tape | 2 rolls | 2‑in wide |
| Wheels (optional) | 2 | 10‑in pneumatic, lockable |
Note: If you prefer a lighter build, replace steel side rails with 1.5‑in aluminum tubes and use aircraft‑grade plywood.
Build Steps
Step 1 -- Prepare the Frame
- Cut the tubing to length (≈70 in for side rails, 20 in for front eyebars).
- Drill mounting holes on the eyebars that align with the SUV's rear latch points (or the anchor plate you'll fabricate).
- Weld or bolt the side rails to the front eyebars, forming a "U" shape.
- Install cross‑members every 12 in, securing them with ¼‑in bolts.
Step 2 -- Add the Floor
- Lay the plywood on the frame, verify clearance (allow 1‑in gap for expansion).
- Secure the plywood with 1‑½‑in stainless steel screws through the cross‑members.
- Seal the plywood with epoxy, then sand lightly and apply two coats of UV varnish.
Step 3 -- Install Restraint & Safety Features
- Attach rubber pads to the interior of side rails (use adhesive‑backed spray glue).
- Mount D‑ring eyelets into pre‑drilled holes on the rails.
- Fit the head‑stall bar into a front slot; lock with a bolt when in use.
- Install hinged gates at the front and rear, each with a lockable cam latch.
Step 4 -- Build & Attach the Ramp
- Cut the ramp from plywood to 30 in long × 24 in wide.
- Apply anti‑slip tape across the top surface.
- Drill two sets of ½‑in holes on the underside to match the ramp brackets.
- Bolt brackets to the front rails; use quick‑release pins for easy removal.
Step 5 -- Finishing Touches
| Task | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Paint or powder‑coat the steel | Prevents rust and reduces glare. |
| Add reflective tape | Increases visibility during low‑light travel. |
| Install a small drainage hole (½‑in) | Prevents water accumulation. |
| Test weight capacity | Verify the trailer holds at least 1,300 lb before the first ride. |
Loading & Unloading Your Horse
- Park the SUV on a flat surface; engage the parking brake.
- Extend the ramp and secure it with the quick‑release pins.
- Lead the horse onto the floor, using a halter and lead rope for guidance.
- Position the head‑stall bar to keep the horse facing forward.
- Fasten all tie‑down points (front, side, rear) using padded straps.
- Close both gates , lock the latches, and give the horse a final check before departing.
Maintenance Checklist (Monthly)
- ☐ Inspect bolts and tighten any that have loosened.
- ☐ Check rubber pads for wear; replace when cracked.
- ☐ Re‑coat any exposed steel surfaces that show rust.
- ☐ Clean the floor with a mild detergent and re‑apply a thin coat of oil to maintain the seal.
- ☐ Test the ramp's hinges and pins for smooth operation.
Safety & Legal Considerations
| Item | What to Do |
|---|---|
| Vehicle payload | Ensure the combined weight of SUV, passengers, gear, and trailer does not exceed the manufacturer's payload rating. |
| Trailer registration | In many jurisdictions, a trailer > 200 lb must be registered and display a VIN plate. Check local regulations. |
| Ventilation | Cut two 4‑in mesh vents on opposite sides of the floor to allow airflow while preventing debris entry. |
| Fire safety | Keep a small fire extinguisher in the SUV's cargo area; consider a fire‑retardant floor finish. |
Optional Upgrades
- Portable solar panel (10 W) mounted on the roof of the trailer to power a small vent fan.
- Removable side walls (thin aluminum or fabric) for extra protection in inclement weather.
- Integrated water bowl (collapsible silicone) that slots into a side recess.
- Quick‑release wheel kit (if you want the trailer to become a towable unit for longer hauls).
Final Thoughts
Building a DIY travel horse trailer for a compact SUV is an achievable project that blends engineering, craftsmanship, and a love for adventure. By following the steps above, you'll end up with a lightweight, removable trailer that:
- Fits neatly inside the cargo bay, keeping the SUV's interior usable.
- Holds your horse safely while you explore off‑road trails.
- Saves you a significant amount of money compared to commercial options.
Take the time to measure twice, cut once , and never compromise on safety. Your horse will thank you, and you'll enjoy the freedom of hitting the trail with confidence.
Happy building---and safe travels!